However, the cut off temperatures appear to be very high but not so high that the safety High Heat sensor is shutting down the dryer. It appears that the heat cycling process is about the same in all modes. Here are my results for each heating mode with Minimum Heat on temp ☏ / Heat Cut Off temp ☏ respectively. All tests below were performed in an empty dryer and in timed mode only foe each heat mode. I ran each mode and ran about 4 cycles of heat on and heat off to allow system to equilibrate. I decided to test the temperatures by running the dryer in each mode to see how hot it was getting and testing the cutoff temperatures by measuring them with my digital trusty oven thermometer. My wife was complaining that the dryer is getting too hot and has been running every load using extra low. The issue I am having is that the temperatures for any heating mode appear to be overheating. I have a similarly related issue, but wanted to pass it by you before buying any parts. Otherwise, you may need to move on to the next thermistor / sensor to see if that particular one is working properly. I am not sure how your vent is configured but use something like this Deflector Dryer Duct Cleaning brush (click on the link to see it). Vents tend to get caked with lints overs the years and the restrictive air flow tends to burn out those thermistors quite often. In that case, the first thing I would do is to clean out the vent. If the dryer heats properly, then you know that something is causing excess heat which is melting the metal inside the thermistor (as designed) to stop the over-heating dryer. IF THE BYPASS IS LEFT IN PLACE AND YOU USE YOUR DRYER, YOUR DRYER CAN CAUSE FIRE !! Always re-install the thermistor after completing the testing. ***WARNING – BYPASSING A THERMISTOR IS NOT A PERMANENT SOLUTION. This troubleshooting step depends on the level of your DIY skills, but what I have done in the past is to TEMPORARILY bypass the thermistor to see if the dryer works longer than 1-2 min (re-read my post to see how I did it). Please note that Whirlpool Duet dryers have multiple temperature sensors. However, I believe both versions are quite similar in terms of temperature sensors. My Whirlpool Duet Dryer so I do not have direct experience troubleshooting your model. Crossing two wires is for TESTING only bypassing a thermal sensor (which is a safety feature) is NOT A PERMANENT fix using this method other testing will increase the likelihood of Hi Abby-ĭid the technician do anything else to solve your problem? Simply replacing the board and charging labor and walking away does not seem right. If these steps do not work, you will need to replace another sensor in the back of the dryer closer to the flame) my article has a link to the correct ones thermal sensors/fuses don’t last like they used to, so make sure to buy some extras to avoid paying shipping down the road if the dryer is working, you need to replace the thermal sensor/fuse. plug-in the appliance and turn on the dryer. disconnect both wires from the sensor and tape them together, making sure metal tabs are touching each other ģ. for example, you can apply a piece of black electrical tape to one wire and note its position Ģ. there are two wires attached to the thermal fuse/sensor mark two wires and their original positions. Although the resistance readings fell in the normal (but higher) range, but I decided to replace them because they actually have moving parts inside STEP 8 – At this point, I was fairly confident that thermal fuse and gas valve coils were causing my dryer to not heat properly, so I placed an order with you can read the article titled Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer – How to Replace Thermal Fuse and Gas Valve Coils.Ī quick recap is to check the thermal sensor by the exhaust vent. open circuit) so this part NEEDS TO BE REPLACED STEP 7 – To test the gas valve coils (there are two coils one nearest to the toe kick panel has 3 prongs the other has 2 prongs), I marked and removed all wiring harness and measured the resistance across terminals. My multimeter reading came in at infinite resistance (a.k.a. STEP 5 – No issues with visual inspections fro STEP 4 proceeding to resistance check (power cord must be unplugged from outlet) STEP 6 – Mark the thermal fuse wiring harness (so we know which wires go into which terminals) then remove thermal fuse, using 1/4″ socket. If corroded terminals are found, use emery or fine sandpaper to carefully remove it without damaging the wire sheathing.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |